Monochromatic Transmission Hologram

  • Viewed by shining laser light behind the hologram at same angle as when hologram was shot

  • Use objects that are metallic (but not intensely reflective), white, or red for a hologram with a strong image. Dull blue and green objects will absorb the red light and not reflect it, which will make a weak hologram.

  • Exposure time: 10-15 minutes.

  • If the hologram doesn’t turn out check your object first to make sure it meets the standards above.

Check the laser positioning to make sure it covers both the object and the plate.

Expose it for longer. Litiholo film is durable and hard to overexpose.

Make sure there is no motion from air vents, speaking, walking, or bumping the table.

  • If the hologram still is unclear, move the laser closer to the object.

Old School, super helpful intro to holograms (1972)

Questions to think about

What does it mean to shoot a landscape in a hologram?

How will my viewer engage: e.g. holding, dancing, getting close, sensors that trigger lights?

Can a small hologram capture a large scale?

How can small holograms work together?

Does my object blend in with the holographic scene, or stand out?

Which dimension does my object exist in?

Is this a still of a moment in time? Is my object stuck? Is it trapped? Does it want me to look at it?

Does my hologram exist next to, on top of, or behind another object or media?